Rooted in Tradition: How African Designers Are Weaving the Everyday into High Fashion

Written by Carmel Kundai Makaya

But what you don’t know is that that sweater is not just blue, it’s not turquoise, it’s not lapis, it’s actually cerulean. And you’re also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. . . And then it, uh, filtered down through the department stores. This is a quote from the iconic 2006 film Devil Wears Prada. Meryl Streep delivers this impassioned monologue to Anne Hathaway’s character, an aspiring journalist who lacks an appreciation for the art and commitment that is the fashion industry. The message is clear: the decisions made by high fashion designers and executives impact the more accessible parts of the fashion industry. From colours to fabrics, luxury fashion experiences the moment first, then made-to-order, and ultimately, fast fashion.

 

While Devil Wears Prada is rather satirical in nature, this system of bringing fashion to the masses rings true on the global stage, see the conversation about fast fashion copycats. However, when we take a look at African designers, the reverse seems to ring more true. The everyday elements of African culture are what is influencing high fashion.   A few months ago, Afrique Noire had the honour of spotlighting the collaboration between Marega Assetou and Ivorian brand Kaoka. Assetou, a fourth generation fabric dyer, uses the traditional methods learned from her mother to bring an added sense of groundedness to the pieces in Kaoka’s collection. Doreen Mashika, a Tanzanian brand also featured in 2023, shares this “rooted in culture” mentality, with each garment capturing the beauty of the intersection between the various cultures residing in Zanzibar.  

  For decades, what is African has been viewed as primitive, ugly, and even unimportant to the global creative scene. But even more so, for centuries, creatives across the continent have been celebrating the dyes, fabrics, and stories that have marked their lineages.

  Through this diligent work and the support of their local communities, the work of the creatives who have come before is carried on. Designers are showcasing their vibrant African heritage on stages like Dakar Fashion Week, Lagos Fashion Week, and across the world.

 

 

 

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