Written by: Khadijah Yusuf Ali
For centuries, African ancestors have shaped global fashion. From jewelry to hairstyles and textiles, their influence is everywhere—even if the world doesn’t always recognize it.
Today, our ancestors’ styles continue to inspire modern fashion. Their attire, hairstyles, body marks, and jewelry inspire both the old and young across different continents, including Asia and Europe. We see how people try to recreate the way our emperors, elders, and indigenous people dressed. The world has adopted African culture and even turned it into trends. Non-Africans wear cornrows, tie-dye clothes have made their way into high fashion and streetwear, and knitted garments have become a staple among fashion enthusiasts. The stacking of jewelry—whether maximalist or minimalist—is now a global styling technique embraced across various fashion aesthetics, from boho and streetwear to old money and high fashion
Celebrities and influencers like Tems, Bonang Matheba, and Aminata Mboup are heavily influenced by their African roots and are recognized for their bold and unique fashion styles.
Cleopatra of Egypt Cleopatra, often described as stunning, wore exquisite garments of Egyptian heritage, including the kalasiris—a close-fitting sheath dress made of linen that left the chest bare. She often paired it with a gorgerine, a metal disc worn on the chest, among other embroidered robes.
Cleopatra was also known for her elaborate accessorizing. She adorned herself with anklets, massive snake-shaped armbands, and bold bangles. Her beauty regimen included bright green paste under her eyes, blue on her eyelids, and black kohl eyeliner—techniques that continue to influence beauty trends today, with many dressing as Cleopatra for Halloween and other celebrations.
The Kingdom of Kush The Kingdom of Kush has also played a significant role in modern fashion. Between 1780-1580 BC, Kushite women adorned themselves with beautiful beaded jewelry and used bronze mirrors. Wearing gold jewelry was a common practice.
Princess Armenil Dis, who lived in the 8th century, wore exquisite gold rings, bracelets, and colorful beaded jewelry, some of which were made from ostrich eggshells. Queen Amanishakheto, always covered in gold jewelry, was an inspiration to women in her culture—queens, nobles, and commoners alike—who wore varying degrees of adornment. The contrast of gold against their deep brown skin enhanced its beauty.
Kushite kings and men were also fashion-forward, wearing tight-fitting crowns—skullcaps made of leather or metal with the sacred serpent symbol. They accessorized with cord necklaces that draped over their shoulders and backs, while their leather sandals, sometimes dyed in green, red, or yellow, were stamped with snake-like patterns.
West Africa’s Gold Adornments In West Africa, Adinkra symbols are used to craft gold jewelry among the Akan people of Ghana. These bold gold pieces take various shapes, like the mudfish, symbolizing nourishment and protection, often crafted into rings or necklaces.
These traditional adornments have inspired both local and international fashion brands. Schiaparelli, known for its bold gold accessories, incorporates African influences into its designs, from bags to jewelry and even dresses. African designers, such as Adebisi Adedjouma, founder of ILE-IFE, continue to celebrate African heritage through jewelry. VANLELES-DIAMONDS ethically sources 75% of its precious stones and metals from Africa, further showcasing the continent’s influence in high-end jewelry.
As demand for bolder fashion statements grows, Benin bronzed sculptures, historically used in art, have become statement jewelry pieces, with brands like TrufacebyGrace incorporating these influences into their collections.
North African Beauty Practices In North Africa, the Berber people of Morocco wear a blue veil called the litham, dyed with the nila plant, which also treats skin conditions. Women rub the fabric on their faces when going out, leaving behind a blue residue that protects the skin from the sun—an early form of sun protection that has evolved into modern sunscreen.
The nila plant was not the only one used in beauty. Henna, derived from its tree, was applied to hair and hands, a practice still widely embraced today. Kohl, used as black eyeliner, remains a staple in the beauty industry, influencing the popularity of smokey eyes and bold eye makeup trends. Henna remains integral to African culture, particularly among the Hausa of Northern Nigeria and Kushite women, where intricate designs are applied for celebrations such as Eid. Today, non-Africans have adopted it as temporary tattoos.
Textiles and Patterns African textiles continue to influence fashion worldwide. Adire (tie-dye), originating from Ogun State, Nigeria, was first produced in Abeokuta by the Yoruba people in the early 20th century. It is crafted using hot wax to create patterns before being dyed with extracts from the elu plant.
This traditional art has inspired designers globally. Nigerian-owned brand Dye Lab creates contemporary clothing and accessories, such as bags, using adire. Ade Bakare Couture in London also incorporates adire into eccentric designs. The widely popular ‘bubu’ outfit, indigenous to West Africa, Sudan, and other African regions, has evolved into the ‘rich auntie gown,’ a modern reinterpretation of a traditional style.
Africa has always been a land of color, with its textiles, art, and culture embracing bold hues. While many societies favor muted tones like grey and black, African cultures celebrate vibrant colors like red, yellow, and green, made from natural sources such as henna (orange), mint (green), and saffron (yellow). Africa’s love for bold colors has undeniably influenced global fashion trends.
Adinkra symbols are also prominent in textile designs, used to create cultural pieces that are transformed into clothing, bags, and more.
Two-Piece Outfits and Skirt Styles The Yoruba women traditionally wore the Iro and Buba—a two-piece outfit consisting of a loose-fitting top and a wrapped skirt. Similarly, ancient Egyptians of the upper class wore the schenti, a knee-length kilt wrapped around the waist. These traditional garments can be seen as inspirations for modern two-piece outfits, including skirts that sit perfectly on the hips, often paired with crop tops.
The Power of African Hairstyles Hairstyles in Africa are more than just beauty—they are a form of art, representation, and communication. Different tribes have distinct styles, each carrying deep cultural significance. From intricate braiding techniques to elaborate hair adornments, African hair has been, and continues to be, a major influence on global beauty trends.
