By Hadassa Serrano Noire Fashion Columnist, Africa
Every fashion house starts with a vision that transforms simple ideas into designs and personal philosophies into a unique language. Clothing brands have evolved from mere commercial products to become social tools, cultural expressions, and sources of creativity for people.
As I reflect on this, I realize that building a fashion brand is no longer just about creating commercially successful clothing. It is about weaving identity through garments, conveying meaningful messages, seeking expression and individuality, and telling captivating stories. On the African continent, emerging designers are beginning to grasp the profound impact of fashion beyond mere status and spectacle. They understand that fashion can be ethical, innovative, cultural, and functional all at the same time.
The fashion industry in Africa is currently undergoing a remarkable transformation, entering a vibrant new era marked by innovative brands, emerging talent, and dynamic fashion events. These developments are not only elevating the profile of African fashion but are also fostering meaningful conversations about its future. This fresh wave of creativity showcases the rich cultural heritage, meticulous craftsmanship, and forward-thinking concepts that remind us that the future of fashion in Africa is firmly anchored in community values, sustainable practices, and a commitment to high-quality artistry. Within this exciting landscape, Brass Atelier stands out as a notable brand, contributing to the movement with its unique vision and dedication to authentic design.
BRASS ATELIER
Brass Atelier is a Lagos-based fashion brand focused on creating statement pieces for the contemporary connoisseur, prioritizing sustainability and wearability by using secondhand fabrics from the local market and transforming them into contemporary designs with local artisans.
Founded by Adedeji Adebiyi, the brand aims to challenge Nigeria's culture of waste. Adebiyi envisions a luxury fashion industry in Africa that showcases how luxury can be achieved through ethical production methods and craftsmanship focused on longevity, rather than fleeting trends. Through Threads of Influence, Adedeji transformed his internship experience into a collection that reflects his journey, with each piece telling a story of his growth and passion as an emerging designer.
During my observations, I identified three distinctive approaches that Adedeji is implementing for Brass Atelier. These strategies not only set the brand apart but also actively help reshape perceptions of the African fashion industry as a whole.
SUSTAINABILITY AS LUXURY
Africa serves as a benchmark for sustainability because we learn from the very beginning to utilize only what we have to create. Sustainability is subtly integrated into our practices, and Brass Atelier’s designs emphasize this principle by using deadstock and secondhand fabrics to create garments that embody luxury as a conscious choice. His clothing is designed to last longer, move better, and benefit both the wearer and the fashion landscape.
Adedeji's brand exemplifies the idea that true luxury in clothing goes beyond just the price tag. For him, luxury starts in the atelier, where the garments are crafted, through the careful selection of fabrics, during the production process, and in the techniques employed. Ultimately, he believes that luxury begins where consciousness resides.
INNOVATION THROUGH SUSTAINABILITY
In the fashion industry, innovation is often synonymous with the emergence of new trends and the latest styles that capture the public's attention. However, at Brass Atelier, the concept of innovation takes a different approach. The focus here is on sustainability and creativity, which involves reworking previously used materials into new designs, deconstructing traditional silhouettes to create unique forms, and creatively reimagining deadstock—the leftover fabric and materials from past productions that would otherwise go to waste.
This philosophy holds that what is typically considered waste can, in fact, be transformed into something beautiful and valuable. By adopting these practices, Brass Atelier not only reduces environmental impact but also provides a platform for artistic expression, challenging the conventional norms of fashion design. Through this innovative process, each piece tells a story of sustainability and individuality, making every creation not just a garment but a statement.
RESPONSIBILITY AS IDENTITY
While we may purchase clothes out of necessity, the reality is that what initially captures our attention is the message a garment conveys. Brass Atelier’s designs communicate responsibility and reflect a commitment to conscious consumption, contributing to a more ethical and positive fashion landscape. Wearing a Brass Atelier design is not just about wearing a well-crafted garment; it’s about embracing an identity that speaks volumes and centers around accountability.
As a fashion writer dedicated to showcasing the work of African fashion makers, I aim to document the voices behind the crafts and designs. In this conversation, Adedeji Adebiyi opens the doors to his creative world, sharing his vision, aspirations, and the craftsmanship behind his work.
How would you define your brand among many other clothing labels based in Lagos?
Adedeji Adebiyi: BRASS is Lagos, but with a circular conscience. While many labels focus on new production, BRASS starts with what already exists. We rescue dead stock fabrics from yaba and work with local artisans to create contemporary menswear. So we are not just another Lagos brand making clothes. We are redefining modern African luxury through sustainability, storytelling, and craft. Every BRASS piece is intentional, made to last, and rooted in Nigerian heritage.
Who is the wearer of the clothes you design? What’s their lifestyle, age range, occupation, or even aspiration?
Adedeji Adebiyi: The BRASS wearer is the contemporary connoisseur. They age from 24 to 40, and they are all around the world. And globally minded. A creative, an entrepreneur, a professional who moves between bedrooms, art openings, and weekend activities. They care about how they look, but care more about what they wear. They aspire to build, to leave a legacy, and to wear pieces that reflect culture, quality, and responsibility. For them, fashion is identity. And they want the clothes to say something.
What change are you trying to bring to Nigeria's fashion landscape with your brand?
Adedeji Adebiyi: I want to shift how we view the value of Nigerian fashion.
Right now, waste is everywhere, and skills are disappearing. BRASS is proving that we can build luxury by reducing waste, paying artisans fairly, and designing for longevity.
I want to use dead stock as an opportunity, not trash. And I want Nigerian menswear to be known globally not only for aesthetic, but for responsible craftsmanship and circular thinking.
Through your designs, specifically in the collection “ Threads of Influence,” what message are you trying to convey about the fashion industry in Africa?
Adedeji Adebiyi: “Threads of influence “ is about power and lineage.
The message is: African fashion doesn’t need to start from scratch to be relevant. Our influence already exists in the textiles, in the hands of our artisans, and in the stories we’ve been told.
The collection shows that sustainability and luxury can coexist. That we can take materials others call waste, and transform them into cultural weight and global appeal. It’s a reminder that Africa’s future in fashion is circular, community-driven, and self-defined.
What was one of the most challenging aspects of designing Threads of Influence?
Adedeji Abebiyi: Sourcing consistency. Because we work with dead stock, no two rolls of fabric are the same. Or else you are very lucky. I’d find the perfect tweed in Yaba on Monday, and by Wednesday, it's gone. That forced me to design around the limitations, and honestly, it made the collection more interesting. It pushed me to be more creative with patchwork and little fabrics, and with how we were able to pierce fabrics together.
The challenge became the signature.
I read in one of the articles about Brass Atelier that you decided to launch Threads of Influence after interning at Lagos Fashion Week. How did that impact you as an emerging designer?
Adedeji Adebiyi: Threads of Influence is actually our second collection. We released our debut collection in February 2025 (AURUM), where we pierced Aso Oke fabrics with Deadstock materials and other deadstock textiles.
Lagos Fashion Week showed me what’s possible as an intern. I was backstage, meeting designers, artisans, and production teams to see how fast they were working. The craftsmanship and professionalism needed to be taken seriously. I needed the process for myself on how to work more with my artisans. That experience gave me the confidence to release my second collection for BRASS. Two collections in, and I’m still trying my best. The beauty of Lagos nightlife also added to the inspiration of THREADS OF INFLUENCE.
Fashion transcends mere garments; it embodies the essence of people, their lives, dreams, philosophies, and the stories woven into each piece. BRASS Atelier reflects the beauty of a vision in its infancy, reminding us that every celebrated name in fashion originated from a single idea, a first creation, and a courageous first step.
With a commitment to addressing fabric waste in Nigeria and embracing a philosophy of luxury that emphasizes longevity and mindfulness, the brand focuses on craftsmanship that honors artisans and supports ethical practices. Its goal is to design with a strong emphasis on community, sustainability, and cultural preservation.
I believe this marks the beginning of many future collections that will contribute to the evolution of Nigerian fashion and positively impact the broader Nigerian fashion landscape.
Images credits
Creative Direction: Adedeji Adebiyi - Tosin Babarinde
Photography: Tosin Babarinde
Stylist: Alexandre Okeke Onyebuchi
Tailoring: Adedeji Adebiyi
Models: Joseph Peter Onahwu, Heisrmmax