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Ugo Monye
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Not Just Fabric: African Designers are Stitching Identity and Power

Written by Oluwakemi Adedoyin What if I told you that the clothes you wear could tell a story? Not just where you bought them, but who you are, where you come from, and the power you hold. For African designers and tailors, fashion is not just about looking good—it’s about making a statement, reclaiming narratives, and weaving identity into every stitch. These creators are not merely cutting and sewing fabric; they are sculpting culture, reviving traditions, and breaking boundaries. From the intricate hand-dyeing techniques of Mali’s Bogolanfini (mud cloth) to the regal Kente weaves of Ghana, African designers have always used fashion as a language—one that speaks of heritage, resilience, and modern reinvention. But today, something even more extraordinary is happening. African designers aren’t just making clothes—they’re redefining what fashion can be. They are pushing past the “traditional prints” stereotype and proving that fashion is architectural, avant-garde, and boundary-breaking. Designers like Thebe Magugu, the first African to win the LVMH Prize, blend sharp tailoring with cultural storytelling, creating pieces that celebrate South African heritage in contemporary silhouettes. Meanwhile, Lisa Folawiyo transforms Ankara fabric with intricate embellishments, proving that traditional textiles can be both high fashion and globally relevant. Whether it’s couture gowns that tell the stories of ancient kingdoms, bold streetwear reflecting the pulse of modern African youth, or sustainable pieces made from upcycled materials, designers across the continent and the diaspora are making it clear: This is not just fabric. This is power. The Storytellers Behind the Seams Fashion in Africa has always been a language. While African fashion has always been a vessel for heritage and resilience, today’s designers are taking that legacy a step further—challenging norms and redefining global fashion standards. 1.  A Dress That Speaks Before You Do Have you ever seen a dress so bold it stops conversations? African designers are masters of creating statement pieces with deep cultural and personal significance. Think about the Asooke bridal gowns of Nigeria, handwoven with shimmering threads, each stripe symbolizing the wearer’s lineage and family prestige. Or the Zulu beadwork-infused designs of South Africa, where every color holds a hidden message. For instance, the blue bead in Zulu culture signifies faithfulness and love. Designers today are reinterpreting these elements for a global audience. A sculpted gown made from repurposed Adire fabric? A streetwear hoodie lined with Maasai Shuka cloth? These creations remind us that African heritage is alive and evolving—not just something to be framed in museums. 2. The Architects of Identity African designers don’t just follow trends—they set them. By playing with form, texture, and silhouette, they turn fashion into architecture, movement, and poetry.   Take, for example, the rise of Afrofuturism in fashion. Designers blend ancient African aesthetics with futuristic elements, creating pieces that look like they belong in both a Nollywood epic and a sci-fi blockbuster. Everyday styles are also becoming more experimental. In Dakar, tailors fuse European tailoring with African prints, creating sharply cut suits in explosive colors. In Nairobi, deconstructed kitenge jackets blend vintage and modern vibes. This isn’t just fashion; it’s a reclamation, a declaration that Africa is not behind; it is ahead, forging new paths in style and creativity. 3. Fashion as Resistance, Fashion as Power   Clothing has always been a form of resistance in Africa. During colonial times, wearing indigenous fabrics was an act of defiance. When the British imposed dress codes in Kenya, the Mau Mau freedom fighters rejected Western attire, choosing instead to wear traditional shukas and handmade garments as symbols of their fight against colonial rule. Similarly, Nelson Mandela’s signature Madiba shirts—vibrant, loose-fitting, and distinctly African—became a quiet but powerful statement against Western formalwear, reinforcing the idea that African leaders could define their own image on the world stage. Today, African designers continue to use fashion as a tool for empowerment: In Ghana, young designers are reclaiming Kente from being just “ceremonial wear” and turning it into everyday streetwear—an assertion that pride in heritage is not just for special occasions. In Nigeria, designers are challenging gender norms, crafting androgynous outfits that blur the lines between masculine and feminine. In South Africa, Black-owned luxury brands are challenging the European-dominated fashion industry, proving that African opulence is world-class.   Fashion is no longer just about looking good; it’s about making a statement. And African designers are making theirs loud and clear. The impact of African designers is now felt across the globe. Beyoncé, Rihanna, Zendaya, and Lupita Nyong’o have all donned African designers on red carpets and in music videos. Luxury fashion houses are collaborating with African brands, eager to tap into the continent’s creativity. But the real revolution? It’s happening at home. African designers are building ecosystems; training tailors, creating sustainable supply chains, and reviving lost textile traditions. The future of fashion is not just about exporting African designs to the world. It’s about making Africa the center of global fashion innovation. African fashion is not a trend. It’s not an aesthetic phase. It is a force. One that stitches together the past, present, and future into something bold, unshakable, and revolutionary. Because this is not just fabric.This is not just fashion.   This is identity, stitched in power.

Beauty/Fashion

Balga: Tunisia’s Heritage in Footwear

Founded by Safa Boudokhane in 2019 Introducing to you, BALGA, a footwear brand inspired by the rich heritage of Tunisia.     Safa spent her younger years watching her mother’s skilled hands delicately embroider intricate designs using a traditional tool known as ‘El Gorgef.’ Growing up in a household brimming with creativity, Safa found herself deeply inspired by the craftsmanship she observed.   Driven by her desire to honor her mother’s artistry and provide her with a renewed sense of purpose, Safa built her shoe brand, showcasing her mother’s embroidery as an essential component.   Safa’s vision was to breathe new life into her mother’s craft, infusing it with contemporary designs and creating a platform for her talent to be celebrated. In building BALGA, Safa aimed to give her mother a sense of rejuvenation, pride, and recognition, while also preserving the rich heritage of Tunisian traditions.   Balga has since been transformed from head to heel, re-imagined and brought to life in new shoe collections every year – turning footwear into a work of art. Follow Balga Design here on Instagram Join Noire family by following us here on Instagram and also on TikTok.  

Runway

Lagos Fashion Week: A Tapestry of Cultural Richness and Modern Innovation

As the sun set on the vibrant city of Lagos, a wave of anticipation swept over the fashion elite, marking the commencement of Lagos Fashion Week. Known for its dynamic blend of African tradition and contemporary flair, this event has steadily ascended to the pinnacle of the global fashion scene, drawing in enthusiasts from all corners of the world. A Canvas of Cultural Elegance Each year, Lagos Fashion Week transforms into a canvas showcasing the rich tapestry of African culture through fashion. The event is not just a parade of garments; it’s a celebration of African heritage, seen through the lens of modern design. This year was no exception, with designers delving deep into the continent’s diverse history, weaving stories of the past with threads of the future. Innovative Runways The runways glittered with innovation, featuring bold prints, fluid silhouettes, and an audacious use of color that is emblematic of African artistry. Designers like Maki Oh and Orange Culture pushed boundaries, blending traditional motifs with avant-garde designs, encapsulating the spirit of Africa’s boundless creativity. Sustainable Fashion: A Forward-Thinking Approach A notable theme this year was sustainability, reflecting a global shift towards eco-friendly fashion. Lagos Fashion Week has become a platform for designers who champion ethical fashion, showcasing how style and sustainability can coexist beautifully. A Global Spotlight The event’s global appeal was evident, attracting a diverse audience of international designers, celebrities, and fashion influencers. Lagos Fashion Week has not only put African fashion on the map but has also provided a vital link between African designers and the international fashion community. Conclusion: A Celebration of African Brilliance As Lagos Fashion Week draws to a close, it leaves behind a trail of inspiration, signaling a bright future for African fashion. It’s a celebration of creativity, culture, and innovation, reminding us that fashion is not just about clothing; it’s a reflection of history, identity, and hope.

Runway

Sipho Mbuto: Weaving Ethics and Aesthetics into the Fabric of Sustainable Fashion

In the bustling workshops of Durban, South Africa, the hum of sewing machines traces the blueprint of a fashion revolution. Spearheading this shift is the brand Sipho Mbuto. Here, fashion isn’t merely about transient trends, but a liaison between aesthetic allure and ethical ethos. At the core of Sipho Mbuto’s philosophy lies an unwavering commitment to sustainable practices. The brand’s narrative is straightforward yet profound— creating timeless apparel that resonates with the conscientious modern sophisticate while treading lightly on Mother Earth. Each creation of Sipho Mbuto is an ode to minimalism, reflecting an effortless elegance that transcends ephemeral fashion whims. The designs, though rooted in simplicity, echo a deeper narrative of sustainable elegance, finding their muse in the realms of art, architecture, and the serendipity of random discoveries. Crafted from the bosom of nature, the materials that breathe life into Sipho Mbuto’s designs are nothing short of a homage to the brand’s ethical underpinning. Linen, cotton, silk, viscose, and wool are meticulously sourced from trustworthy African producers, ensuring a traceable lineage right from the lap of nature to the nimble fingers crafting the garments. This isn’t fast fashion. This is fashion with a conscience. Each garment is birthed from a made-to-order model, a deliberate stride towards curbing overproduction. The promise is of a garment so well made that it becomes a cherished possession, one that you’d mend and wear with pride, time and again. The journey of a Sipho Mbuto garment doesn’t end in the wardrobe; it’s a circle. When the fabric has danced its last dance, it returns to nature, biodegrading, leaving nary a trace of its sojourn. But Sipho Mbuto’s narrative doesn’t halt at creating sustainable apparel. The brand is a clarion call to appreciate and protect the natural diversity enveloping us, to foster a culture of care that extends beyond the cloak of fabric we adorn. In a world drowning in the excesses of fast fashion, Sipho Mbuto emerges as a lighthouse, guiding the way towards a fashion realm that’s as ethical as it is elegant.  

Beauty/Fashion

Elegance in Simplicity: A Timeless Blue Ensemble

In this captivating spread, we celebrate the beauty of minimalism and sophistication. Our subject is adorned in a plain yet utterly refined blue ensemble that speaks volumes about the enduring allure of simplicity. Complementing her attire, she dons an exquisite African straw hat, adding a touch of cultural richness to her look. This ensemble captures the essence of understated elegance, where every detail is thoughtfully chosen to create a harmonious and timeless fashion statement. It’s a reminder that true style transcends trends and embraces the beauty of simplicity